OI Magazine - N° 34 - October 2023

57 OI magazine e precious leather belt, which is a part of all Gardena male costumes, is also widespread throughout Tyrol and is embroidered with peacock feathers in many hours of labour. O en, initials of the owner, family crests, the crest of the municipality, or the association to which they belong are embroidered on the belt. It may also feature owers and animals, expressing the owner’s a liation and economic status. e origin of this belt likely dates back to prehistoric times. In Val Pusteria, a bronze plate dating from the 5th century BC, which was part of a belt, was found and is now preserved in the Museum of Bolzano. In the past, the typical belt in Val Gardena was adorned with metal studs. However, in the last century, aligning with other Ladino valleys and South Tyrol, they opted for nely embroidered belts featuring peacock feathers. Austrian painters Jakob Placidus Altmutter (1780-1820) and Franz von Defregger (1835-1921) depicted scenes of peasant life, markets, and festive occasions in their paintings. eir works serve as important testimonies of the clothing worn during those times: in their paintings, men were depicted wearing suede trousers, wide-brimmed hats in yellow, green, or black, embroidered leather belts, and short jackets. Around 1750, during the winter, all the inhabitants of Val Gardena wore white head coverings, both adults and children. ese were later replaced by woolen or fur hats. In the summer, Gardena men wore wide-brimmed hats similar to those worn by men throughout Tyrol. Until 1830, all men in Val Gardena wore short jackets that could be of di erent colors, especially brown and blue. e inhabitants of Val Gardena speak an ancient language among themselves, known as “Ladino.” Furthermore, they have preserved the typical and unique traditions of this valley. Even the traditional costumes worn by the inhabitants of Val Gardena for processions, festivals, and important events stand out from those of neighbouring valleys due to their colours, the fabrics used, and the way they are tailored. Not too long ago, in the markets or cities, one could tell from the clothing which valley a gentleman came from, whether it was Val Gardena, Val Sarentino, Val Pusteria, or another valley in South Tyrol. On festive days, when the inhabitants of Val Gardena proudly display their traditional costumes, the attire also reveals whether a man or woman is married or not: young bachelors and unmarried young women wear green hats, while married men wear a top hat or a wool cap. e costumes of Val Gardena re ect the history of the region. Until 1919, Val Gardena, like the rest of South Tyrol, was part of the Austrian territory. For this reason, the Gardena costumes include several garments typical of Tyrolean tradition, such as suede knee-length trousers, wide-brimmed hats, leather belts, linen or cotton shirts, woollen or cotton socks, and black leather shoes with laces (once a privilege of the few). In the traditional Gardena costume, the suede trousers are black and feature the distinctive embroidery (on the front and side) typical of Val Gardena (this embroidery varies from valley to valley).

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